Oysters on the Half Shell at Gaido’s, Galveston
I remember going to Galveston when we were kids and of course my parents took us to Gaido’s. We were fascinated by the gargantuan crab on the roof with a placard “Caught in Galveston Bay”, debating whether or not it was real. It usually took about an hour to get a table but there was a gift shop to peruse and cases of cut crystal to view while waiting. And once seated that piping hot oval dish of Crab au Gratin made everything right in the world.
Gaido’s is synonymous with seafood in Galveston. In 1911 San Giacinto Gaido opened the famous fresh fish house. Still family owned and operated by fourth generation Casey Gaido, the institution prides itself on the freshest seafood and the best service.
I joined a friend this week at his island pied-à-terre for a few days of sanctuary. I visited during the week which is pleasant, gone are the weekend warriors and present is an air of tranquility. So in selecting a spot for dinner one evening we nominated Gaido’s. To be honest, the establishment rarely makes my list of top choices because I filed it under “touristy”. So on a quiet weeknight we were thrilled to select the renowned eatery—an epic meal it would be!
History of the island comes alive on the walls of Gaido’s, Galveston
The walls are covered with history as one passes through the lobby and bar. Not only is Kewpie Gaido’s collection of cut glass still on display but an impressive presentation of historical photographs form a backdrop for tables set with crisp white linen cloths.
The waiter introduced himself and prattled off the establishment’s celebrated history. And after requesting a wine list we ordered a cocktail course, both selecting a classic Old Fashioned.
The dinner drinks were served and I requested silverware, my setting must have been overlooked; we ordered Oysters on the Half-shell (even though the waiter wasn’t sure if they were Gulf oysters), and I selected a bottle of wine. At any rate, I am old fashioned enough to know a good Old Fashioned when I get it, and it was excellent. The fruit was perfectly muddled and I love a big orange peel.
The famous collection of cut crystal at Gaido’s, Galveston
The evening was looking good. We ordered soups and entrees. But things began to unravel quickly…
The beautiful oysters arrived and I still had no flatware nor a napkin so I reminded the server again, and he still had no idea from where the oysters came. At any rate we were provided with oyster forks so at least I was not left to my own devices. But we came to learn that the oysters were not shucked properly; the undersides had not been cut and juicy little bivalves still clung to the under shell. Our little forks shredded the tender mollusks as we wrapped the tines around the meat tugging and scraping to release them, leaving pieces still attached.
By the time our cocktail glasses were bone dry there was still no wine on the table. I asked again for silverware and wine. And after getting the bottle wrong at first our waiter was unable to operate his corkscrew as he twisted and pulled and struggled. I had really never seen anything like it. Do you know how maddening it can be to have empty glasses while a server tussles with a corkscrew for a comically long period of time?
Watkin’s Bisque, Brook’s Gumbo, and Soup of the Day at Gaido’s, Galveston
The trio of soups included Gumbo, Lobster Bisque, and the Soup of the Day. But the trainee waiter who delivered the soups had no idea how to identify them. “So what’s the green one?”
“Uh,” (shrug), “I don’t know.”
When the entrees arrived to the table our wine was just about empty. And I would have gladly ordered another bottle but after the ongoing series of missteps, I kind of just wanted to eat and leave. To have an additional beverage with dinner we each ordered a house wine by the glass along with bread for the table.
I will admit that my dinner companion ordered properly. My selection was good but not nearly as good as the Stuffed Summer Flounder with Fritz topping. The flounder is cooked whole with crumb and shrimp stuffing; Fritz is fresh blue crab sautéed in butter and lemon. The entrée is $46.
Stuffed Summer Flounder Fritz at Gaido’s, Galveston
We asked twice for bread and finally got it by the time we asked for a doggy bag.
For the experience the restaurant is too expensive; we spent a few hundred dollars. And had we had better service we would have gladly continued to layer the ticket with another bottle of wine, Brandy Alexanders, and dessert, which would have also increased the server’s tip.
A good waiter is powerless to save a weak kitchen but can often mitigate the damage. But a strong kitchen is at the mercy of weak service.
When I think of Antoine’s in New Orleans, another family-owned restaurant in business in excess of a century, and at a similar price point, the service is impeccable.
So how much of the Great Gaido’s Debacle of 2015 is owed to the waiter? He was certainly polite. But at that purported level of dining the waiter was entirely too green—he was an international intern who had only been in the United States for ten months. So in this case I place the responsibility on front of the house management for permitting inexperience to be the face of a venerable eatery. A restaurant cannot simply rest on its laurels or illustrious history, nor expect patrons on the Seawall not to know the difference.
(Please note that all photos were taken in the restaurant.)