The Treemont House, Galveston, Texas
Someone once said about Galveston that if you just lower your expectations you won’t be disappointed. Well, I think that is a little harsh. I happen to adore the island, one might even say that I am gung ho. I even had my own get-away there a few years back—but one shouldn’t have to lower expectations, rather just know what to expect.
In my work I meet new transplants to Houston on a daily basis. I like to tell them about the museums, the restaurants, and “to do” list ideas. But when Galveston comes up they all seem to have the similar reaction—they’ve heard it’s terrible.
U.S. Custom’s House, Galveston, Texas
Who are these worldly bon vivants who so quickly turn up a nose at Galveston and warn against visiting? Sure, Miami South Beach is an extraordinary beach, so is Playa Paraiso and La Jolla—but none of those can be reached in less than an hour’s drive from Houston! No one appreciates snobbery more than I do, but get real. After a short drive one leaves the mainland behind and enters a completely different world.
Steeped in history and named for Bernardo de Galvez, the island’s first European settlement was built by French pirates in the early 1800s. Later in the century the island became one of the largest ports in the USA and a major center of commerce. In 1900 the island was devastated by a massive hurricane which killed 6,000 to 8,000 people and is still considered the deadliest natural disaster in US history. The entire island was raised and rebuilt in a most unimaginable engineering feat. The Rosenberg Library exhibits an extraordinary wealth of historical archives, photographs, and artifacts (Galveston’s Rosenberg Library Museum – TroysArt) if history is your bailiwick.
The Cornet by David Addickes, Galveston, Texas
With the onset of Summer this is a good time for a TroysArt primer to the island, the first of several. I spent a few days there this week and I’ve never seen the water clearer or the beach cleaner. And though the beach is often the focal point of the island it is not necessarily what Galveston is all about. I have been to the island many times without touching a grain of sand. And truthfully, the beach can be pretty gross depending on the time of year. But the entire island is a peculiar attraction worthy of exploration. There is always something to see and something to do.
Bernardo de Galvez detail, Hotel Galvez, Galveston, Texas
First, get a good hotel. Galveston attracts a wide swath of socio-economic levels with all sorts integrated into one mass. The hotel can be the refuge from surf, sand, and insanity: wining, dining, and shopping downtown, do the Treemont House—beautiful rooms, grand piano in the bar, old school; clubbing and carousing on the Seawall calls for the San Luis, a Tillman Furtitta glamorama—Landry’s Inc. restaurants and a glitzy, boozy pool with DJ; and sunning and funning in old world charm there is my favorite Hotel Galvez (The art of escape, Hotel Galvez – TroysArt)—quiet elegance with grand lobby, swim up bar, and spa.
The whole island is a sightseeing mecca. Galveston’s East End is a historic residential district. With Magnolia lined streets and over-the-top Victorian homes, it is a unique neighborhood with a diverse socio-economic composition. Next to the home of a millionaire might be a middle-income apartment building next to a modest shotgun. In the alley behind a mansion could be a hovel with a yard full of chickens. And locals laboriously maintain their architectural heritage. The East End remained a cloistered jewel for decades. Overlooked during the years of economic downturn and languishing untouched during periods of beachfront development, much of the 19th and early 20th century architecture remained intact like a gigantic time capsule.
The Moody Mansion, Galveston, Texas
This vibrant history lends itself perfectly for house museum tours—and any regular reader to TroysArt knows that a great house museum says so much about the environs. House museums are the truest way when traveling to discover the stylistic influence of a city. Aesthetic standards are undoubtedly set by early trend and taste setters, molding the flavor of generations to come. And when eyeballing so many grand mansions one cannot help but wonder what they look like inside!
The Moody Mansion is one of the better known house museums; but honestly, the house is not as magnificent as it is purported to be. And there is nothing worse than dusty old docents. The house is big, so if a big house impresses you then this might be the right tour for you. I toured the house for the second time this week and all I could think was I’ve voluntarily done this twice and I want to get off this ride!
The Bishop’s Palace is the big fish in Galveston, as house museums go. It is a self-guided tour through a mansion that is spectacular in design, detail, and history (The Bishop’s Palace – TroysArt).
Eaton Chapel, Trinity Episcopal Church, Galveston, Texas
Of course all that touring can conjure a mighty appetite. And there are so many great restaurants on the island—too many to mention, but I can name a few. There is a delicious old fashioned, off the beaten path Italian restaurant di Bella’s with red and white check vinyl table cloths, Mexican food at The Original Café, and sandwiches at Mosquito Café. Star Drug Store does a hearty breakfast and has an original soda fountain. And breakfast is amazing at Hotel Galvez, for sure! And Miller’s Seawall Grill makes pleasing, consistent American cuisine, pours a stiff drink, and the wait staff is entertaining. But skip famous Gaido’s (The Great Gaido’s Debacle – TroysArt), it is over rated.
A few days ago I happened upon Palm’s M&M. I always thought it was a bar. But to my pleasant surprise it is a right proper restaurant with white linen table cloths and a right proper bar. The happy hour food I tried was fantastic so I look forward to having a full meal on my next visit.
The Bishop’s Palace, Galveston, Texas
In my future posts here I definitely look forward to getting more serious with restaurants. An older gentleman on the beach suggested Rudy & Paco which has been highly recommended to me before. So along with M&M, it will be a must!
And in subsequent posts TroysArt will cover art galleries, antique shops, the Rosenberg Fountains, and a few other surprises here and there. The antique shops and art galleries are treasures!
By the way, the photos included were snapped while walking my darling dog daughter Delta Dawn. I just love walking in Galveston, whether down the Strand, through the East End, or on the Seawall. Click on the photos for beautiful detail the way Delta Dawn saw it…
Well said, Troy!!!
I love Galveston…
George